Troubleshooting - 2

Most common cure:
Typical loss of the LEDS on the front panel are a result of either the 8 volt regulator OR the 12 volt regulator opening up. It is usually a result from the regulator's mounting technique. They are screwed onto the heat sink plate on the rear power supply and eventually in shipping from point to point become loose, overheat, and open.
Replace Q01 = LM-7812 and the Q02 = LM-7808 on the bottom side of the heat sink on the main 47 VDC power Regulator located in the back left corner of the FL-7000 near the rear fan.

Most common cure:
This works EVERY time I have tried it. If your Automatic Antenna Servo Motors are not turning (The ones attached to the variable capacitors) Simply follow these instructions.
1. Remove the bottom cover on the FL-7000 and gain access to the Variable Capacitors connected to the servos located under the tuner unit.
2. Power up your FL-7000 leaving the unit upside down.
3. Push in the TUNER button.
4. Apply the exciter at about 70 watts.
5. Press the TUNE button on the FL-7000.
6. While it is in the tune mode QUICKY move the capacitors by hand back and forth (limited to as much travel as you can).
7. I'll bet they start working again!
8. After they become functional again, lube them with WD-40 at the SERVO ONLY which is the shaft from the servo to the capacitor.
9. Replace the covers, your tuner now works.

Most common cure:
In most cases when the band will NOT track while connected to a Yaesu transceiver Band Data Output, the problem is located on the main processor board.
1. Remove the side rails, top, and bottom covers.
2. Remove the end trim pieces and screws holding the front panel on.
3. Only remove the top front panel screws on the sides to allow the front panel to 'swing' open.
4. While the front panel is resting 90 degrees from the chassis, you now have access to the processor board that IS mounted on the front panel.
5. Replace Q01 = UPD7507C. Replace D38, D-39, D-40, and D41 (1N914 diodes from Radio Shack)


Most common cure:
If the Antenna Selector Ports on the back of your FL-7000 are not working.

1. Remove the side rails, top and bottom covers.
2. Remove the end trim pieces and screws holding the front panel on.
3. Only remove the top front panel screws on the sides to allow the front panel to 'swing' open.
4. While the front panel is resting 90 degrees from the chassis, you now have access to the processor board that IS mounted on the front panel.
5. Replace Q004 , Q005 and Q006 (2SA733A) *** Found all over inside CB radios ***


Normally, trip out occurs when either too much power is applied from the exciter, or there is a problem with the PA Modules. Part of the modifications that I perform on the FL-7000 is to desensitize the part of the protector board that causes a shutdown from something other than a possible fault. i.e. it actually relaxes the unit slightly.
There are several other ways that 'trip-outs' can happen though and one of them is the input power. If the input power drops to around 90 to 100 VAC, the regulator compensation will not allow for the drop, causing trip out. This becomes tedious because you have to shut the power off and turn it on again and sometimes it happens 4 or 5 times every time you are in QSO. This problem as well is modified to allow more of a voltage drop without trip outs.
If your FL-7000 trips out the second you key the transmitter, chances are that the PA Modules are bad, the RF Transistors need replaced, OR the power regulators are open and the VCC reads above 47 VDC on the meter located on the front.