Troubleshooting - 1

Below are some common problems and their fixes. If you do not feel comfortable making any of these repairs, then DO NOT attempt them! Please have only a competent technician perform service on your FL-7000. I assume no liability for any damage or problems caused by performing the below repairs/modifications.
If you are sure the voltage selection is set right, and the power fuse is OK but your FL-7000 will not power up, the following is the most common cure:
Replace R01 = 10 Ohm, 10 watt, R02 = 27 Ohm, 1/2 watt and D01 = 1N4001 (Standard Diode)
These components are located right behind the rear panel near where the power cord enters. See the FL-7000 Manual on this site for help.

Most cases after return, the fan shrouds are slightly bent in from the sliding weight of the FL-7000 bumping the sides of the shipping box. This can cause many problems when and during operation due to the fact that one or both fans can not spin free causing an overheat condition. Assure that BOTH fans are spinning free and have no restrictions.

Most common cure:
An above 50 VCC is usually a result of an overdrive condition from either an FT-1000MP Mark V Power Spike (see FL-7000 Care) or a constant tuning on a lower band. When this happens, it is most likely two parts that go bad, however a failure of a third part is possible. The parts to test and/or replace are: Q005, Q006 (2SD797Y) and Q007 (2SB5950). These parts are located on the Power Supply Heat Sink towards the rear of the FL-7000 near the rear fan. There are many substitute parts that will work, so do not limit your self to the exact part number. NTE and ECG are just a few cross over compatible parts manufacturers.

Its sad to say, but in most all the cases of low power output, the problem results from either one or more RF Power Transistors becoming weak. It is impossible to test these transistors with a typical digital volt meter in the diode check position and even if you do find an open transistor, you must replace them in matched pairs.
Don't be alarmed though, because ICOM still sells the 2SC2652 transistors (used in the ICOM solid state rigs) and other replacement transistors are available. (see FL-7000 Parts)
There is one other possible place to look for low power. One in every three units have this problem, however is not always apparent. If your FL-7000 is drawing the proper current (viewed on the FL-7000 current meter during transmit) however you still have low power output, you are in luck. Usually a very heavy toroid on the combiner unit will break free (glued) causing of the combiner to loose solder connection to the circuit board, reducing power by half. You will need to remove the combiner unit which is located in the front right corner of your FL-7000 under the screen mesh. This unit can be removed without disconnecting all the wires and connectors by:

1. Remove the screen mesh cover held in place with 4 screws.
2. You will see 3 gray coax connectors that are plugged into the LPF board (right most vertical board next to the combiner).
3. Remove the 3 coax connectors (one is a sub miniature coax connector, the other two are phone style connectors).
4. Remove the 4 screws that hold the combiner into place located at the base four corners of the combiner.
5. Roll the combiner upwards and over the power transformer. It will actually lay on the power transformer.
6. Look at the LARGE black toroid on the side of the cooling fin assembly (combiner board) and check to see if the toriod is 'glued' in place or it broke free.
7. If it is broke free , remove the combiner circuit card from the cooling assembly and verify that all the wires from the toriod are soldered to the circuit board and that none of them broke free.
8. If any are broke free, repair them and reassemble the unit for test, you WILL have full power again!