If you are sure the voltage selection is set right, and the power fuse is OK but your FL-7000 will not power up, the following is the most common cure:
Replace R01 = 10 Ohm, 10 watt, R02 = 27 Ohm ¼ watt and D01 = 1N4001 (Standard Diode)
These components are located right behind the rear panel near where the power cord enters. See the FL-7000 Manual on this site for help.
Most cases after return, the fan shrouds are slightly bent in from the sliding weight of the FL-7000 bumping the sides of the shipping box. This can cause many problems when and during operation due to the fact that one or both fans can not spin free causing an overheat condition. Assure that BOTH fans are spinning free and have no restrictions.
Most common cure:
An above 50 VCC is usually a result of an overdrive condition from either an FT-1000MP Mark V Power Spike (see FL-7000 Care) or a constant tuning on a lower band. When this happens, it is most likely two parts that go bad, however a failure of a third part is possible. The parts to test and/or replace are: Q005, Q006 (2SD797Y) and Q007 (2SB5950). These parts are located on the Power Supply Heat Sink towards the rear of the FL-7000 near the rear fan. There are many substitute parts that will work, so do not limit your self to the exact part number. NTE and ECG are just a few cross over compatible parts manufacturers.
Its sad to say, but in most all the cases of low power output, the problem results from either one or more RF Power Transistors becoming weak. It is impossible to test these transistors with a typical digital volt meter in the diode check position and even if you do find an open transistor, you must replace them in matched pairs.
Don’t be alarmed though, because ICOM still sells the 2SC2652 transistors (used in the ICOM solid state rigs) and other replacement transistors are available. (See FL-7000 Parts)
There is one other possible place to look for low power. One in every three units have this problem, however is not always apparent. If your FL-7000 is drawing the proper current (viewed on the FL-7000 current meter during transmit) however you still have low power output, you are in luck. Usually a very heavy toroid on the combiner unit will break free (glued) causing ½ of the combiner to loose solder connection to the circuit board, reducing power by half. You will need to remove the combiner unit which is located in the front right corner of your FL-7000 under the screen mesh. This unit can be removed without disconnecting all the wires and connectors by:
Most common cure:
Typical loss of the LEDS on the front panel are a result of either the 8 volt regulator OR the 12 volt regulator opening up. It is usually a result from the regulator's mounting technique. They are screwed onto the heat sink plate on the rear power supply and eventually in shipping from point to point become loose, overheat, and open.
Replace Q01 = LM-7812 and the Q02 = LM-7808 on the bottom side of the heat sink on the main 47 VDC power Regulator located in the back left corner of the FL-7000 near the rear fan.
Most common cure:
This works EVERY time I have tried it. If your Automatic Antenna Servo Motors are not turning (The ones attached to the variable capacitors) Simply follow these instructions.
Most common cure:
In most cases when the band will NOT track while connected to a Yaesu transceiver Band Data Output, the problem is located on the main processor board.
Most common cure:
If the Antenna Selector Ports on the back of your FL-7000 are not working,
Normally, trip out occurs when either too much power is applied from the exciter, or there is a problem with the PA Modules. Part of the modifications that I perform on the FL-7000 is to desensitize the part of the protector board that causes a shutdown from something other than a possible fault. i.e. it actually relaxes the unit slightly.
There are several other ways that “trip-outs” can happen though and one of them is the input power. If the input power drops to around 90 to 100 VAC, the regulator compensation will not allow for the drop, causing trip out. This becomes tedious because you have to shut the power off and turn it on again and sometimes it happens 4 or 5 times every time you are in QSO. This problem as well is modified to allow more of a voltage drop without trip outs.
If the fans will not operate even with the FAN1 and FAN2 LEDS Illuminated, change the following components in this order, (one at a time) until they restart.
D09 (1N914)
D10 (1N914)
D13 (1N914)
D14 (1N914)
D18 (1N914)
D19 (1N914)
Q-6 (2SC1815Y)
Q-7 (2SC1815Y)
Q-8 (2SC1815Y)
Q-9 (2SC1815Y)
D-21 (S12MD22)
When the FAN LED comes on, usually the fan will run at a very slow speed, then, depending on how hard the amplifier is working, will ramp up to a high speed for a short period of time. After sufficient cooling has been reached the fan will slow back down to a slower speed. If the fan goes straight into HIGH SPEED, the HIGH SPEED thermal sensor on the P.A. unit is most likely shorted. Check all three sensors for greater than 10K ohms when cool. The HIGH SPEED Sensor is the one single sensor on P.A. 2. (60 Degrees C) The other P.A. has two sensors (40 and 80 Degrees C).
If the fans do not shut off even after the FAN1 and FAN2 LEDS are off, replace D-20 and D-21 on the Protector Board.
Typically if the Power Supply Warning LED is illuminated, it is a result of the rear fan not operating. Out of ALL the units I have ever worked on I have noted, there is something, either a wire or a bent fan shroud from shipping that keeps the rear fan from coming on. If you can “spin” the rear fan without hearing any clicks or rubbing sound you are OK. The only other thing is the fan itself may be defective and needs replaced.
The fans SHOULD run during a warm cycle even after the power is turned off (Green FAN1 and FAN2 LEDS ON). If the fans run during power on and you shut the power off and the fans go off as well (FAN1 and FAN2 LEDS OFF) replace the relay on the protector board. Relay location is RL01 and also replace D-17.
A quick verification to see if a power supply problem is a result of a faulty PA unit,
The Thermal Compound on the RF Transistors located on the Power Combiner unit, have a tendency to become “hard” after years of use. This “hard” transformation can actually damage the unit by excessive heat transfer reduction from the component to the heat sink and bias limiting diode. It is recommended that you replace this heat sink compound, at least the compound on the diodes, every-time you have the amplifier serviced.
To replace the heat sink compound, follow the same instructions listed in “Low Power Output” above to gain access to the power combiner unit.
There are two Lithium Batteries in your FL-7000. One is on the Main Processor unit behind the front panel and the other on is on the Automatic Antenna Tuner processor board. Which ones do you replace? If they read low voltage (below 2.8 VDC) OR:
Replace the battery on the Main Processor if the LEDs for tracking do not resume where they were during a power down, power up cycle. i.e If you were on 17 meters , turned off the power for a while and turned it back on and the LED shows 160 meters.
If you turn on your FL-7000 and the VCC reads below 20VDC on the FL-7000 meter, then the problem that is common in most cases is a shorted Power Output Transistor (2SC2652). There are a number of ways to find out that this is the case. The fastest way is to:
If it does come back to the normal 48 VDC, then power down and hook ONE red wire up and try it. If it still reads 48 VDC, then the side with the RED wire not hooked up has the problem. If it does read low voltage, then unhook that RED wire and hook the other RED wire up and try it to verify only one side of the PA has a problem. Replace BOTH RF Transistors on the bad side, replace the RED wires and you are good to go.